At the Trumpet Shrine

The Dragačevo Trumpet Festival, held each year in August, this year gathered several hundred thousand domestic and foreign visitors. Held under the auspices of the Serbian government, the Festival featuring brass instruments, national cuisine, drink, song and dance created an electrifying atmosphere for all its guests.

By Milorad St. Ilić
Photo by Milan Melka

The road to Guča leads across Mt. Jelica. According to legend, the area was once the bottom of a large lake. The people living on its shores berthed their boats to stone poles that can still be seen on top of Mt. Jelica. With time, the water cut its way between Ovčar and Kablar, flowing out into the Pannonian Sea and creating one of the most beautiful gorges in Europe, out of which the tame and fertile Dragačevo came into existence, from what was once the lake’s bottom. The people of Dragačevo were known as industrious cattle breeders and farmers, but also as brave fighters in times of uprisings. Interesting monuments strewn throughout the valley bear witness to this heritage.

They were often placed along the sides of roads so that poet Branko V. Radičević named this type of monument krajputaš (roadside monuments).

In late 19th century, the young men of Dragačevo began bringing back castaway bugles after completing military service. The sound of the trumpet echoed in the Dragačevo, echoing more powerfully than the tamer sound of the frula (a type of wooden flute). The vibrant blare of the trummpet could be heard for miles through the valley. In time, these former army trumpet players formed bands, and since then, no celebration could be complete without them.

The first appearance of trumpet orchestras occurred 46 years ago on Holy Protection of Theotokos Day in Guča. A specific style of music has evolved since the time of discarded army bugles to the present age of shiny trumpets. Along with the Čačak-Užice styles of playing, other unique styles of playing developed in Leskovac-Vranje and in eastern Serbian. Legendary trumpet players such as Miles Davis who visited Guča were impressed by the high quality of playing of self-taught trumpet players.

The central site of the festival is the church yard in Guča. Officially, however, the trumpet players compete in the football stadium and square near the Town Culture Centre. It is the numerous itinerant groups of trumpeters playing in the streets and outside tented restaurants who create the festival atmosphere. These trumpeters were discovered internationally thanks to the films of Emir Kusturica and Goran Bregović’s Wedding and Funerals Band.

This festival honouring the trumpet begins with a parade of some 200 trumpeters and the festival’s Sa Ovčara i Kablara anthem. Some 20 finalists appear for the grand finale. The biggest dream for any of these trumpet players is to win the competition. Old craft items by weavers, tailors, cobblers, potters, pastry chefs and blacksmiths are exhibited throughout the duration of the Guča festival.

This year’s 47^th festival lasted for five days. Tens of thousands of mostly young people arrived to Guča in a virtual trance to attend the close of the competition, a unique ethno-festival that is found only in Serbia.

This trumpet, a universal instrument, is also a synonym for warfare, weddings, funerals, taps and, of course, morning bugle calls. From the depths of its crater issue forth piercing sounds, its metallic entrails causing goose bumps. With cheeks puffed like balloons, the trumpeters’ playing is so powerful that it virtually turns Mt. Jelica upside-down and reverses the flow of the small river Bjelica. Like every year, the vertiginous rhythm of the frenzied music created a hedonist’s oasis that shook the earth and make the blood boil in one’s veins.

Once described as a sociological phenomenon, the Trumpet Festival in Guča is supplemented by ancient folk customs, national costumes and culinary specialties prepared in the traditional manner, which are served in earthen vessels. These include beans, sauerkraut prepared particular way, grilled meat, lamb and pork roasts, all of which is served with proja, a type of Serbian cornbread. The succulent taste and inviting aromas of the food reminds one of a home atmosphere. The entire atmosphere is reminiscent of old-time village get-togethers, village fairs and rural celebrations; the very event is an outdoor psychotherapeutic workshop using tempo furioso music to crush the stress of urban life, an explosion of wild archetypal energy.

The irresistible charm of Guča, underpinned by a collective discharge of negative energy, can be compared to ancient bacchanalia, carnival in Rio, huge rock concerts such as Woodstock or exciting sports competitions with thousands cheering their team. Yet, they are all part of the authentic, and for many, the exotic Balkan folklore that has one aim – to relax and entertain.

Zlatna Truba Hotel   The three-star Zlatna Truba Hotel is in the centre of Guča. In addition to three suites, there are also 31 two-bed rooms, a restaurant accommodating 120 guests, an outdoor space seating 100 guests and a beer hall for 70 guests. The hotel is open all year around, and primarily hosts groups of athletes because the Guča area is suitable for cross-country events and open-air training. The hotel is well-known for its fine cuisine featuring Dragačevo specialties.

Stars of the 47th Dragačevo Festival   More than half a million domestic and foreign visitors attended this year’s Trumpet Festival in Guča; they enjoyed the authentic atmosphere and music, food and drink. On the third day, renowned rock musician Goran Bregović appeared with his Wedding and Funerals Band, arranging old and new numbers for brass wind instruments. Of the 20 competing orchestras, the title went to the Demir Ćerimović orchestra from Vranje. The grand prix in individual competition went to Ekrem Mamutović, a member of the Nenad Mladenović orchestra, also from Vranje; the audience choice award went to Dejan Lazarević from Požega. The most authentic-sounding performance title went to Dragan Ignjić from Užice.