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Homolje

A mountainous and ravine-covered region in the eastern part of the country known as Homolje is one of the most significant regional tourist areas in Serbia.

Text & photo by Stanko Kostić

The region of Homolje is located in the upper basin of the Mlava River and encompasses the Žagubička and Krepoljinsko- Krupajska ravines, bordered by mountain ranges. The essence of the Homolje area is a basin of springs and the upper basin of the Mlava River with its tributaries. Remote from main roads, ringed with high and barely passable mountains - the Homolje Mountain in the north (940 m), the mountain range Gornjak in the west, the mountains Crni Vrh (1,027 m) in the east and Beljanica (1,336 m) in the south - Homolje has always relied on its own economy and secluded way of life. An economy based on its own resources is founded on mining, raising cattle, and logging, while a lack of communication with neighbouring areas has preserved many elements of ancient Balkan culture. To date, Homolje has remained an oasis of unpolluted nature, of preserved customs, of original architecture and folk handicrafts.

There are several interpretations regarding the origin of the region's name: according to one, the name Homolje originates from a Walachian word "omulj" meaning "man" (from the Latin word "homo"), while another explanation says it derives from the Slovene word "hlm", meaning hill or mountain, which Homolje generally is. The third interpretation includes the possibility that the name relates to a type of cheese made from goat or sheep milk, which the ancient Slovene people produced here.

In addition to mountains and ravines, the whole region is abundant with gorges, valleys and caves. Rich with water, flora and fauna - only one hundred kilometers away from the urban and always-in-arush Belgrade - the Homolje mountains are a tourist destination famous for their authentic nature.

Due to its rich mineral wealth, interest in the region was shown by ancient Balkan peoples such as the Celts, Romans and Armenians. Silver and gold were extracted here by Tsar Lazar and King Milutin. Their rule in the region is testified by their endowments - the Monastery of Gornjak and the Monastery of Vitovnica. In addition, remnants of other monasteries and churches are numerous, and the Metropolitan of Braničevo used to be located on a clear field in the ravine.

That was Homolje of the bygone days, but what does it offer to tourists today?

Not a single rapid, whirl, stream, valley or gorge has lost its beauty and attraction. If you come from Belgrade, at the gate of Homolje you will first be charmed by the Mlava River's stubbornness, which through the centuries hollowed out a passage for itself, and emerged on the plain near the village of Ždrelo at the entrance of the Gornjak gorge, continuing its course through futile Stig. After the Gornjak gorge you will come across the Ribarska gorge, which surpasses the previous one in beauty. Here you will also find the remains of towers from the Roman period, among which Gradac distinguishes itself. Along the full length of the gorge, the roaring waves and rapids of the Mlava River can be heard while eagles circle high above its cliffs. One of the natural rarities you'll see is Samar, a natural packsaddle-like rock near the fork of the Mala Tisnica rivulet. These natural rock bridges have become vaulted arches over rivers. They often resulted from collapsed caves and are therefore extremely rare.

In the limestone region around Beljanica, the mountains of Homolje, there are a great many caves the most famous of which are: the Cave of Resava, Rajkova's Cave, the Pogana (Bad) Cave, the Stogrine Cave, Lazar's Cave on the road to the city of Bor and the Ceremošnja Cave on the road to Kučevo. The crags of the cliffs and caves are a challenge to mountaineers and speleologists.

The unpolluted waters of Homolje hold great potential for the devleopment of eco-tourism. The region is full of springs and has great fishing (trout, chub, gudgeon, barbel and carp…), which makes these waters favourable for the development of tourism and sports fishing, while numerous thermal springs are hold potential for spa tourism. Steady springs and well preserved forests with deciduous trees are habitats for different game species (roe deer, wild boars, wolves, hares, foxes, pheasants and gray partridge) which hold potential for the development of hunting tourism. As of last year, the event "Homolje Wolf-hunt" - lord of the Homolje Heights - is organized on 14th January while the red-furred foxhunt at Kamenovo is held on the first Saturday in February.

The vegetation of Homolje is marked by an exquisite biodiversity, which is the result of specific climate and geological events as well as the isolation of its natural ecosystems. Vast forests are imbued with meadows and grassy plains that host many edible herbs. Balms, teas and syrups made from these herbs can be found in European markets. Delicious mushrooms grow in this region (Boletus mushroom, oyster mushroom, chanterelle, meadow mushroom…), as do wild fruits (brambleberry, Cornelian cherry, wild strawberry, rose hip…) which can be found in abundance and used for preparing juices and jams. Flocks of sheep - whose milk is used for making one of the best quality cheeses in Serbia known as the Homolje cheese - feed on ample and juicy grass. You can get to know this region's traditional dishes, costumes, customs and folklore at the traditional annual event called "Gathering at the Springs of Homolje", which is organised on the religious holiday of the Holy Trinity.

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