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Chilandar Monastery Today

For more than eight centuries, or more precisely since 1198, the light of the sacred imperial Serbian Lavra has shone steadily – the Chilandar Monastery. Located among forests and olive groves in the heart of that singular monastic state, Mount Athos, the monastery and its brethren testify to the tumultuous history of the Serbian people.

Text & Photo by Rajko R. Karišić

The pages of Serbian history record three instances of the monastery being heavily damaged by fires. The first, in 1722, destroyed more than half the monastery compound, and again in the same century, in 1776, a fire started in the western section of the monastery. Thanks be to the self-sacrifice, perseverance, unceasing prayer and other humble avocations of the monastery’s brethren, the monastery was always renovated and even expanded. The third and last devastating fire in the monastery’s history occurred on the night of March 3-4, 2004, when in just a few hours the fire totally annihilated the northern half of the monastery compound. The fire spread from the so-called Abbatial quarters to the Dochia Konak (the monastery buildings surrounding the church), and then to the Great Konak known also as Gostoprimnica, over the monastery gates and to the so-called White Konak, and finally all the way to the St. Sava Tower and the Church of the Holy Archangels. Despite the brethren’s heroic attempts to contain it, the fire also destroyed and heavily damaged four parakklesions (side chapels): these included the Chapel Devoted to the Forty Martyrs that was part of the so-called White Konak, the Chapel of St. Nicholas that was above the monastery yard entrance as well as the Chapels of St. Sava and St. Demetrius that were part of the so-called Abbatial residence quarters adjacent to the monastery refectory of Holy King Milutin.

Today, four years later, Chilandar Monastery continues to radiate with awe-inspiring brilliance, gradually assuming the appearance it had prior to this last unfortunate event. The soothing silence and echo of unceasing prayer coming from the naos (inner chamber) of the Church of Holy King Milutin is occasionally interrupted by the sound of building machinery and discussion among the diligent construction workers who have worked for four years, day in and day out, to restore the monastery’s appearance to its former splendour.

"We set to eliminate the consequences and renew the damaged monastery in a planned manner immediately after the fire. In the course of the year, a document entitled "Renewal Program" was adopted that regulated all activity relating to monastery renovation following the fire. A comprehensive analysis conducted by Serbian and Greek experts showed the task of full renewal would take at least ten years and cost between 25 and 30 million euros. A shorter deadline is unrealistic because reconstruction cannot be treated as modern-day construction work, but as reconstruction work applying the principles of restoration and conservation. Also, care must be taken not to disturb the peace and sanctity of this place because Chilandar is a living monastery that enjoys UNESCO protection and falls under the legal regimen of another country (Greece)", pointed out Milivoj Randjić, director of the Chilandar Monastery Foundation in Belgrade.

Before embarking on serious reconstruction of the fire-affected monastery sections, work was first done on the buildings and facilities that lie outside the monastery walls. Precedence was given to existing accommodations for workers – they were adapted and expanded; a new bakery was built and modern bakery machinery installed; the ruined facilities that were once used for keeping hay and mules have now been converted into reception and residential rooms to accommodate pilgrims.

Chilandar Monastery is not merely the centuries gone by and its edifices, our conscience and measure of our spiritual state and the level of Svetosavlje* awareness. After eight centuries, we are still building it and building ourselves into its spiritual edifice; our coming generations will testify to our being its architects and builders.

(Holy Bishop Nikolaj Velimirović)

*authentic Christian experience of the Serbian nation

"Parallel with the daily efforts to ensure the best conditions for the uninterrupted monastic life of the brethren, Serbian and Greek experts from KeDAK worked on necessary designs. The year 2006 was important for renewal of the monastery, as that is when work began on reconstructing the first burnt facility – a residential section dating to 1814. This particular section was selected to begin with as it is located at the very entrance of the monastery and is smaller than other affected parts. It was also chosen for the principles and methods of construction which the expert team, headed by architect and restorer Prof Mirko Kovačević, had opted", points out Director Randjić.

The monastery’s Holy Synod decided to go about this task alone, assisted by organisational and technical help from the Foundation in Belgrade, and engaging workers only from Serbia. The renewal of this konak, as Milivoj Randjić sets out with pleasure, has successfully been concluded and it was consecrated in June 2007. As the ties used to strengthen the Chapel of St. Nicholas shoot straight through the 1814 konak’s last story, finishing work was not completed in the hall on the facility’s ultimate level. The hall, used for the monastery’s Holy Synod meetings and which lent its name to the entire section — the sindik, will be finished following the enhancement of the Chapel of St. Nicholas after Easter of this year.

At this time, the lower level accommodates a modern bookshop offering a large variety of spiritual literature and souvenirs to visitors to remind them of their stay in this sacred place. Above the bookshop, where the so-called King’s Chamber used to be located, is where monks are currently staying, as the number of brethren is continually growing and there is still insufficient accommodation.

We witnessed in February – at the outset of this year’s building season on Mount Athos – that work began on the largest konak, the so-called Great Konak, dating to 1821. The builders welcome the fact that its massive stone walls have been well preserved so that reconstruction should not be complicated. However, given the facility’s spaciousness and high cost of restoration, experts believe the renewal of this part of the monastery will last at least through 2010.

"Work on restoring the Chilandar Monastery would not have unfolded at this pace had there not been understanding and financial assistance from the Serbian government and its ministries of culture and faiths, coupled with national institutions devoted to protecting heritage", Randjić points out. The state budget sets aside one million euros annually for reconstructing the monastery. These funds are not only for rebuilding the monastery, but partly for protecting movable items and upgrading monastic life through the full renewal of the infrastructure network. In addition to these funds in the course of 2004 and 2005, the Serbian Orthodox Church has collected from the faithful more than two million euros for the monastery’s reconstruction. To this list should be added the many companies and individuals from Serbia who have donated funds, means and their labour, contributing to reconstruction work unfolding at a speedy pace", concluded Randjić.