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Though it’s a small island, Malta is also a miniature treasure trove of history as is borne out by archaeological finds dating back several thousand years. Its treasures include impressive Arab citadels, ancient cities and majestic Baroque cathedrals. It is no surprise, then, that Malta has also been a longstanding tourist attraction, as much for its history as for its sea, sun and superb climate.
A thousand years before the first pyramids appeared in Egypt (4100 B.C.), the first unknown inhabitants of Malta built edifices using gigantic stone blocks. Today, they are remnants that hold the secrets to a mysterious culture and religion. These edifices were temples, as archaeologists believe they were used for religious ceremonies. The most visited are the megalithic structures on Gozo island and the Hagar Qim.
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Over the centuries, many civilisations have roamed Malta’s islands. In ancient times, they were in the hands of the Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians and Romans.
Then in 870, Arabs began to rule Malta, while from 1090 to 1530 it was part of the Kingdom of Sicily. Malta has been held by the Arabs, Spaniards, the Knights Hospitaller of St. John, the French and ultimately by the English, who left in 1964 when Malta became an independent state.
Nevertheless, the Sovereign Military Hospitaller Order of St. John of Jerusalem had the greatest impact on the history of Malta, giving the island its historic prestige. The famous Order ruled Malta for over 250 years (from 1530 to 1798), and left a deep imprint on the history and culture of the country, so that Malta is today best known for their presence.
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The story of the Knights of the Order of Saint John of Jerusalem (Knights Hospitaller) begins in the eleventh century, at the time of the First Crusade, when a hospital was established in Jerusalem around 1070. The aim was to take in pilgrims, assist and extend medical help to them in the Holy City. Fifty years later, they transformed into a military organisation similar to that of the Knights Templar, whose fate they shared in the defence of Christianity. The famous symbol of the Knights of St. John, or Knights Hospitaller, was a white cross against a black background, in contrast to the red cross on a white background that was used by the Templars. They were forced to flee the Holy City in 1187, when Jerusalem was captured by Saladin, the great Islamic military commander known to history as a wise and courageous warrior and worthy adversary of the legendary knight of the Third Crusade – Richard the Lion Heart.
After leaving Jerusalem, the Knights of St. John spent centuries fighting Muslims from strongholds in Acra, Cyprus and Rhodes. They remained on Rhodes until 1522, when they were defeated and expelled by Grand Vizier Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent after a six-month siege. In a surprise move, however, they were allowed to leave the island with all their possessions.
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They then wandered around Europe for eight years before arriving to Malta, where Holy Roman Emperor Charles the Fifth allowed them to settle.
The Grand Master and his 4,000 knights moved to Malta in 1530, which accounts for the famous Knights of Malta. They immediately began to construct fortifications and dwellings in the large port of Birgu (later called Vittoriosa), when Malta had a population of just 12,000.
As this port became the focus of events, the importance of the old capital Mdina declined. Just how important this new capital was may be illustrated by the fact that the Spanish Inquisition, arriving to Malta in the mid-16th century, built its palace in Vittoriosa. |
Soon after the knights arrived to Malta, however, Suleiman regretted having been so lenient towards his arch enemies, whom he considered an obstacle in his plans to conquer Europe and spread Islam on the Old Continent. In 1565 frightening news reached the Grand Master of the Knights Hospitaller, Jean Parisot de la Valette; a mighty Turkish fleet was approaching the island. The Grand Master sent out desperate calls for help to all Christian lands, but only a handful of volunteers responded to defend Malta. The Turkish fleet of 181 galleys carrying an army of 40,000 began landing in Marsaxlokk Bay. De la Valette had at his disposal only 600 knights, 1,200 troops, some 5,000 untrained men and eight galleys. The overwhelming numerical superiority of the Turkish attackers convinced them that victory was all but guaranteed. But Malta’s defenders, ranging from ordinary folk to the knights headed by the 72-year-old de la Valette, demonstrated incredible courage and endurance during the siege. It was only after four months (on September 7, 1565) when help arrived on orders from Sicily, that the Turks were beaten back and expelled from the islands.
After this monumental victory, money began to flow to Malta as a token of appreciation from Christian Europe. Malta needed a more modern city that would be easier to defend in future conflicts. The Pope sent his architects to assist in the construction of the magnificent city Valletta, named after Grand Master Jean Parisot de la Valette. From that time onward, trade, crafts, arts and sciences began to flourish on Malta. Many of the fine palaces and cultural institutions still standing today were built at the time.
As the Knights of St. John came from different European countries, eight Aubegres of the Knights (hostels in which a European language was spoken) were built in the new city of Valletta. Three were French, and one each was Aragon, Castilian, Italian, German and English. Some say that this is why the Maltese Cross has eight points – one for each of the nations that constituted the Order. An auberge was headed by a pilier, who had strictly defined duties within the community. For instance, the pilier of Italy was the Grand Admiral of Provence, who was in charge of finances; the pilier of France was in charge of the hospitals maintained by the Order of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, while the Grand Master was chosen to serve for life and was only subject to the authority of the Pope.
The end to the reign of the Knights of St. John in Malta came in 1798, when the island surrendered to Napoleon Bonaparte without fi ring a shot, because the code of chivalry and the oath sworn to the Order prohibited fighting against Christians.
And so tracing the history of the Knights of Malta we arrive to La Valletta, today’s capital of Malta. La Valletta is a city of particular beauty. A tourist interested in the history of the Order of the Knights of St. John must certainly visit St. John’s Cathedral built in 1577. The Cathedral’s floor is covered in the marble-inlaid tombstones of the knights, while the tombs of the grand masters are located in side altars. Besides the eight chapels, each of which is dedicated to a section of the Order, Caravaggio’s Beheading of Saint John the Baptist (oil on canvas) is kept in the church’s Oratory. Also, one must not bypass the Armoury housed in two halls of the Grand Master’s Palace, which houses a collection of the knights’ armour as well as a famous collection of 16th and 17th century arms, said to be the world’s finest.
St. Elmo Fort is a reminder of bygone times and the island’s history. The Fort’s lower section houses the famous World War Two Museum. The National War Museum reflects French (1798–1800) and British (1801–1964) rule on Malta, with a strong focus on World War Two.
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The most distinguished exhibit is the George Cross Medal, awarded for courage and self-sacrifice. Nearby is the Grand Master’s Palace, designed by Girolamo Cassar and dating to 1571.
This Magisterial Palace today houses the president’s office and Malta’s parliament. Institutions of particular importance also include the National Library and the Malta Experience. |
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In the heart of the island is the stunningly beautiful city of Mdina – also called the Silent City. The Phoenicians called it Maleth, and it was known as Melita in Roman times. In the eighth century, Arabs turned this city into a walled citadel with impregnable ramparts. This ‘walled city’ was the island’s capital until the arrival of the Knights of St. John, who made it their headquarters. Since then, the city has been referred to as simply the Old City. Although Mdina lost its prestigious status as the capital with the arrival of La Valletta, its thick walls housed old aristocratic Maltese families, some of which live there to this day. Impressive palaces can be seen among the narrow and winding alleys. There is no car traffic, and thick walls divide it from Rabat, a town of Roman origins that is the cradle of Christianity on Malta. Walking along this peaceful place, the visitor cannot but be deeply impressed by the silence |
