Whole World in One Place

London is above all about those who reside, and those that come and go to and from it. This enchanting yet invisible chemistry that exists among the people there is what makes this city so appealing.

By Siniša Ljepojević
Photo by Goran Tomašević

Some eight million people live in London, but together with the fringe boroughs the figure for the British capital swells to nearly 12 million residents. Also, about 2.5 million people travel every day to London to work. If tourists are added to this number, then each day there are at least 15 million people on the streets and outskirts of London at any given time. On the average, one passes by sixty people each second on the streets of its central city sections.

London residents communicate in some 300 languages, as there are more than 50 ethnic communities each numbering over 10,000 members. Thus, students of a southern London’s Southfields school by Wimbledon use as many as 100 languages. Such is the diversity of London. This is virtually a whole world in one place.

According to official but essentially incomplete data – as there are no ID cards in Britain – nearly one half of London’s residents were born elsewhere, not in the United Kingdom, while nearly 40 percent of them are non-whites.

London is a city of foreigners and immigrants, of unfortunates and the lucky ones from around the globe. For centuries, the metropolis on the Thames has been attracting people from world over; those that strove to escape poverty and persecution and those that wished to share their fortunes and as well as knowledge with others in this city. At this time, London has mostly attracted people from Asia, Africa and the Caribbean, from all the countries of former colonies. Among the whites, the most numerous include such communities as Greek Cypriots, the Polish, and at present also the Russians, followed by the Italians and Serbs.

London has longstanding experience in organizing life for a large number of people. Its leaders have long since had a vision of the city’s future needs so they have built an infrastructure capable of meeting demands to this day. Thus, not a single bridge had been built on the Thames in London over the past one hundred years, yet everything continues functioning smoothly. Not a single new Underground line had been introduced in London since 1901, but the 480 kilometers of its tracks handles some three million commuters every day.

This city cannot boast a refined urban beauty the likes of Paris, Rome or Seville but is possessed of an incredible human energy it passes on to all those who happen to visit it and who never forget it. This energy is authentically embodied in the symbols of London that greet and bid visitors farewell.

The most recognizable symbol of London is the Westminster Clock Tower, which is the official name but which is better known as Big Ben, after the large bell sounded every full hour. Despite various theories, it still remains unclear who authored its nickname and why. Big Ben is probably the best known public clock in the world. The first clock tower was built here as far back as in 1288, but perished in a fi re in the early 19^th century. The Big Ben standing today was built in the mid-19^th century, as the first chimes that still can be heard as they were heard then resounded on May 31, 1859. The initial impression of people who see the Big Ben for the first time is that it is much smaller than they had imagined it to be from the photographs and television footage. But, nevertheless, it is not that small at all. It is 96.3 meters tall, while the four clock faces – one on every side – were put at the height of 55 meters. The dial hands are all run by a single, clockwork mechanism weighing five tons.

Big Ben is accompanied by another symbol – the Houses of Parliament, a building symbolizing British traditions. However, the one standing there now it not that old. A residence for English kings had been built on this site in Westminster in the 11^th century. There had been a river island there, as this was where another, local river fl owed on its way to the Thames. This other river later was covered by the street pavement so that when walking around the Palace of Westminster consider you are ‘walking on water’ because a long-forgotten river is just beneath. In the early 13^th century, parliament, too, began convening at this place. But in 1512, fire destroyed the complex so that the kings changed residence while parliament continued holding its sessions here. But everything went up in flames again in 1834, and construction began of the present-day Houses of Parliament in 1840. It was completed in the early 1900s.

Another landmark is close by – the renowned bridge on the Thames, the Tower Bridge, in the quarter called the City. Its appearance smacks of old London, but, in fact, it is one of the youngest of London’s bridges having been completed in 1894.

What is indeed old is to be found in the many museums of London. The largest and most important among them stands the British Museum at which comprehensive testimony of the civilization we belong to is to be found. It is huge and takes quite some time to complete the rounds. Other museums include the Natural History Museum and the Science Museum. They are located next to each other – the former on Cromwell Road and latter on Exhibition Road, in South Kensington, west London. They hold authentic exhibits presenting the natural environment we live in, including biological evolvement of the human species. At the Science Museum one can follow the technological advances whose benefits the present-day generations enjoy. The next one is the Museum of Childhood on Cambridge Heath Road, east London. Authentic social history of growing up is presented here through a display of toys and life of children. Then there is also the interesting, world-famous Madame Tussauds wax museum on Marylebone Road, central London. The exhibition there is subject to changes though so that one might not get to see one’s favorite character done in wax. The wax figure of former Yugoslav leader Josip Broz Tito, too, was part of the standing exhibition collection but it is no longer there. Twenty odd years ago someone cut of its head on the sly.

Another head, albeit marble, however, still stands – that of London’s most famous immigrant Karl Marx. His study desk at the British Library and his tomb in north London’s Highgate Cemetery are among the most frequently visited tourist attractions.

A special feature of museums in London is that they show not only what really was but also what was not. This most aptly applies to the Sherlock Holmes Museum at the house in central London at 221a Baker Street in which, according to its author Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, the famed detective and his associate Dr Watson lived from 1881 to 1904.

London also offers virtually unbound possibilities for touring all kinds of things during long walks. One would be well-advised to don comfortable walking shoes as everything appears relatively close by at first glance when in actual fact the distances are not in the least inconsiderable. When trying to find a location or a street, one should be wary and not rely entirely on some urban logic because no such thing exists in this city. The present-day London has developed by swallowing several towns and villages with no previous plan. So, although it may seem logical that a street should lead to another, following this logic may not get you to the desired location and, therefore, it is best to follow a street map.

Still, where one cannot take a wrong turn are the pubs in London. They are the true custodians of the spirit of London that lend it its authentic identity. The word pub, derived from the official name Public House or Free House, carries the original identity of the ordinary people with all their virtues and faults. In this age, this seems to be the sole embodiment of true London. Various drinks can be had at the pubs, but the only one most befitting a visit to the pub is beer, primarily bitter beers or ales, which is the old English word for beer. An age-old institution called the commission for approving sale of a certain type of beer in pubs is still active in London. Testing beer quality is done by spilling a quantity of beer over a board or bench. The three member commission then sits on the spilled beer. If when getting up their britches stick to the bench this means there is too much sugar in the beer and this particular type of beer is denied license. If no sticking occurs, the beer is good to be sold in pubs. The commission’s role nowadays, of course, is merely ceremonial because large beer manufacturers deal with the likes of prime ministers and not with ‘sticky pants’ commissions.

Another things is that all the pubs in some ways appear the same all over but the oldest is to be found at the entrance to London’s City. It is called the Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese at 145 Fleet Street, erstwhile the home of the British press. The pub has been standing on these premises since 1538, while its present appearance has remained unchanged since 1667. Nearby is its peer, the Seven Stars pub, at 53 Carey Street, Holborn, standing on this site since 1602.

Along with the pubs there is also the famous London taxi cab, better known as Black cab, rather resembling a room. London boasts some 20,000 of them and over time this number neither has neither dwindled nor increased. To obtain a permit to drive a taxi one needs to complete a special two-year course. To pass the final exam, one needs to know by heart the whereabouts, details notwithstanding, of between 6,000 and 8,000 streets in London. London’s taxi drivers have jealously and perseveringly preserved the appearance of their taxi cabs, as exports of these vehicles is banned. They have also been co-owners of the car plant manufacturing only this type of vehicle. Recently, however, due to new economic circumstances, the plant had to be sold to the Chinese. Many other things in London had to be sold to foreigners, but the spirit of London and its magic will never lend itself to commercial transactions.

Jat Airways departures from Belgrade to London are on Wednesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays, Sundays, Mondays and Tuesdays at 10:35 a.m., and at 10:55 a.m. on Fridays. Additional Jat flights to the capital of Great Britain are on Saturdays at 11:15 a.m. and Sundays 6:10 p.m. Return flights’ departures from Terminal 4 at Heathrow Airport are scheduled on the same days at 1:40 p.m., 1:50 p.m., 2:15 p.m. and 9:15 p.m.